Zihuatanejo is the Mexican Pacific’s Best-Kept Secret, Until Now
Decades after its cameo in an Oscar-nominated film, the relaxed Mexican fishing village of Zihuatanejo is having a revival.
By Nneya RichardsAug. 6 2020, Published 2:04 p.m. ET
Zihuatanejo, Mexico. Most people’s reference to this fishing village is that quiet paradise Andy Dufresne dreams of in The Shawshank Redemption. That turquoise pacific ocean, the winding road through cliffside vistas.. There is something about the name, the scene, Andy’s imagining of the perfect retirement in paradise after going through the misery that sticks with people. It doesn’t matter when they’ve seen the film, even decades later, they remember the name: Zihuatanejo. It’s as though this waterfront village’s name was synonymous with salvation.
As the travel industry has been brought to a standstill, many of our readers that are frequent leisure travelers might be eyeing their next getaway with a little trepidation. Zihuatanejo, with its quiet off-the-radar feel, its bountiful natural resources from the Pacific Ocean, and the surrounding foothills of the Sierra Madre mountains seems like the perfect place for a little retrospective self-isolation.
You’ve heard of, may have even been to some of Zihuatanejo’s neighbors — big resort destinations like Puerto Vallarta to the North and Acapulco to the South are oft-considered on the Mexican vacation circuit. Even Zihuatanejo’s closest neighbor, the resort town of Ixtapa casts a shadow (albeit a sunny one) being a well-known riviera destination of mega-resorts and high-rise condominiums, all just a short flight from Mexico City. Zihua residents are quick to remind you that Zihua is not about hard-partying like its neighbors, though it was indeed a hot spot in the 70s beloved by celebrities like Mick Jagger and Andy Warhol.
While gentrification is something we mostly think of when it comes to cities, overpopulation and mega-tourism can have detrimental effects on small seaside towns erasing original culture and lifeblood and replacing it with an understandably financially attractive, white-washed destination. The designation “Pueblo Mágico” by the Mexican tourism authority can be a gift and a curse to smaller, seaside villages like Zihuatanejo. With an influx of tourism, especially day-trippers, comes a surge of waste and many of these towns have struggled with the proper resources of an effective waste management system. We’ve seen it happen to our favorite Mexican destinations along the Caribbean and Pacific, like Tulum and Sayulita. Cautionary tales hopefully give travel writers a cause to share their stories responsibly.
“I don’t see that happening to Zihua,” many locals said, citing the fish market in their reasoning. Zihua is an authentic Mexican fishing village and it plans to remain that way for years to come. An early AM visit to the fish market on Playa Principal will give you an insight into the essence of the town. Restaurant and hotel chefs haggling, locals buying their daily groceries from a favorite fishmonger; friends, relatives, neighbors. The fish market is the lifeblood of Zihuatanejo. So yes, it’s an early town, maybe not the place you’d go to for nightlife.
From farm, or sea, to table, Zihuatanejo is a clean-eating foodie’s dream. After the fish market, head into town toward the food and produce market for breakfast. Sip on delicious atole, a milk corn-based drink sweetened with condensed milk, vanilla, and cinnamon, as you browse the stalls. The limes are juicer, bursting with juice you can almost feel it through the skin. The strawberries are smaller and sweeter, the flavors come alive. Delicious local sea salt is the perfect addition to mouth-watering recipes — try it on a fresh mango from a roadside market. You are in a fishing village after all and thus, seafood reigns supreme. Make sure to have the local specialty tiritas de pescado, raw skipjack tuna or mahi-mahi fillets cut into strips and mixed with lemon and lime juice, onions, and chilies. If you happen to be visiting on a Thursday, partake in the local tradition and slurp on some pozole verde, a hominy corn-based pork stew. Authentic and homey is the Zihua way.
This town has a natural feel. While as a vacation destination it can accommodate a range of price points, it’s down-home vibe mixed with it’s charm leads to a barefoot luxury experience. Think Mexican surf culture, beach yoga, and full moon parties. Leading the charge for a great deal is the new Thompson Hotel in Zihua nestled on the white sands of Playa La Ropa that opened in January of 2019. Chef Miguel Baltazar’s fire roasting cage on the beach will give you a whole different perspective on your typical barbecue. The restaurants on property, Ceniza, and Hao boasting ancient Mexican cooking techniques and fresh ingredients attract locals and tourists alike. Could you imagine a fine-dining establishment that has a “Challenge the Chef” interactive competition? That’s the vibe you get here at the Thompson Zihuatanejo, a truly unique luxury experience.
Zihuatanejo is nestled around the pristine Pacific bay with waters that provide sanctuaries for delicate marine life like sea turtles. As you drive through the beautiful green jungle you suddenly see Playa La Ropa beneath you. It’s almost as though the surrounding Sierra Madres is hugging Zihua, keeping this town a secret just a little bit longer. Watching awe-inspiring Zihuatanejo sunset, while sipping on a locally grown mezcal, you immediately know that you’ve found Andy’s utopia.
WHERE TO STAY
Thompson Zihuatanejo
Carretera Escenica S/N, Playa la Ropa, Zihuatanejo, Gro., 40895 Mexico
+52 755 555 5500; website
Pacífica Grand Zihuatanejo
Camino Escenico a Playa Las Gatas, Playa las Gatas, 40880 Zihuatanejo, Gro., Mexico
Embarc Zihuatanejo
Escénica La Ropa S/N, Playa la Ropa, 40895 Zihuatanejo, Gro., Mexico
+52 755-555-0350; website
WHERE TO EAT
Ceniza
Carretera Escenica S/N, Playa la Ropa, Zihuatanejo, Gro., 40895 Mexico
+52 755 555 5500; website
Angustina Mezcal & Cocina
Paseo del Pescador No 70, Zihuatanejo, Guerrero 40896
+52 755 544 8566
LOOT Surf & Lifestyle Store
La Ropa 55, Playa la Ropa, 40895 Zihuatanejo, Gro., Mexico
+52 755 544 6038
Mercado Zihuatanejo (Farmer’s Market)
Av licenciado Benito Juárez, Zihuatanejo, Guerrero 40890
WHAT TO DO
Playa Las Ropas & Catamaran Sunset Cruise of the Bay
Rent a car and drive south, about 30 minutes outside of town you’ll find beautiful lagoons with tropical birds and mangroves and miles of beach, some of which are only accessible by horseback or foot!
Cooking Classes & Guided Tequila & Mezcal Tastings at Hao
Carretera Escenica S/N, Playa la Ropa, Zihuatanejo, Gro., 40895 Mexico
+52 755 555 5500; website
Medicinal Hot Springs
North of Zihuatanejo at the entrance of Lagunillas
Originally published in Bleu Magazine Issue 67.