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One of Toronto’s Most Anticipated Restaurant Launches of 2024

Expect dishes like boozy bubble tea, lobster mapo tofu, and applewood-smoked Peking duck

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Sept. 9 2024, Published 1:41 p.m. ET

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Ducks reign at Mott 32, a renowned upscale Chinese restaurant in Toronto, Canada, and the signature Peking duck, which first flew into the international spotlight at the brand’s original 2014 location in Hong Kong, outshines the rest.

This dish sells out nightly in each of the brand’s nine restaurants across the globe—and the newest outlet is no exception. The restaurant uses its local farm in Newmarket, Ontario, to select birds with the desired skin, fat, and heritage breed flavor profile. After going through a top-secret delivery process, the ducks are plucked and dry-aged for 42 days before being marinated, roasted in clay ovens, and smoked with applewood. A street-style cutting technique preserves the skin, which is often discarded by high-end restaurants, and seals moisture into the scarlet-colored meat.

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The ducks are carved tableside, topped with thinly sliced scallions and cucumbers, and then served over freshly steamed Chinese pancakes. But don’t expect the usual hoisin sauce, as Mott 32 serves this legendary dish with a house-made paste of fermented sweet flowers drizzled with roasted sesame purée. Chefs reserve some of the crispy, salty skin for diners to savor solo or dip in demerara (raw large-grained cane sugar). Just make sure to plan ahead, as the restaurant only prepares 25 ducks daily, and customers must place a pre-order ($180 to $480 with caviar, which feeds three to four people).

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Beyond the mighty ducks

Executive Chef Kin Ming Yeung’s team nails the precise slicing and timing demands of Mott 32’s superstar specialty as staff settle into the Shangri-La Toronto space formerly occupied by Momofuku. The innovative menu reflects how Cantonese cuisine emigrated from Hong Kong and evolved, mingling with influences from Beijing, Sichuan, and cultures all over the globe. It also showcases premium organic and sustainably sourced ingredients.

For example, the kitchen uses pluma—the heavily marbled shoulder loin cuts of black Ibérico pigs, who roam freely in southern Spain’s forests—in its barbecued pork. Double-glazed in Yellow Mountain honey, the crimson meat shines after being roasted twice in a dedicated oven. Other standouts include chilled geoduck, wok-fried lobster over soft mapo tofu, and delicately pleated Shanghainese hot-and-sour soup served inside carrot-dyed dumplings.

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Turn to the wok-fried broccoli for a virtuoso display of culinary precision. Chefs use only the middle section of the vegetable’s stems, delivering a consistent crunch. This contrasts beautifully with the bean curds, ginkgo nuts, and sweet red dates, making this side dish a true star. Meanwhile, fish aficionados should opt for the black Pacific cod. The crisp exterior, enveloped in a house-made smoke sauce, gives way to lingering hints of bittersweet osmanthus flowers.

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The drinks menu also ranges far afield with sakes, French wines, and modern, fruit-forward, Asian-influenced cocktails. From a duck fat-washed Old Fashioned to a salted plum margarita, the bar happily colors outside the lines. Don’t miss the Hong Kong ice tea, which is a tequila-based twist on the classic cocktail that glows fuchsia thanks to crème de cassis and Lillet Blanc blended with jasmine tisane. This bold take on boozy bubble tea includes mildly gelatinous basil seeds instead of tapioca pearls. Its color and texture evoke dragon fruit, making this drink eye-candy and a palate pleaser.

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Mocktail fans gravitate to the Mango Paradise, a sweet, tangy, tropical juice mixed with guava and yuzu citrus. Meanwhile, the Jasmine Cooler leans into more delicate floral notes as herbal tea meets the subtle sweetness of lychee, complemented by a splash of soda water and a rose petal garnish.

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Finish with a dessert embodying Mott 32’s role as a pan-cultural ambassador: the matcha red bean jelly. The mellow grassy notes and slight nuttiness of the fine-powdered Japanese tea balance the sweetness of adzuki beans boiled with sugar. Or finish strong with the imperial bird’s nest soup, double-boiled until silky soft. Traditional Chinese medicine prizes this dish, thought to boost the immune system and nourish internal organs. Here, apricot seed juice tempers the nest’s slight brininess, making it an ideal capstone for a playful yet luxurious meal.

“The Perfect Home”

The most-awarded Mott 32 chain draws its name from New York City’s first Chinese grocery store, which opened on Mott Street in 1891 and eventually anchored Chinatown. Globally, the brand has established itself in major cities from Seoul to Singapore, Dubai, and Las Vegas—with London, Los Angeles, and Scottsdale, Arizona, in development. The Toronto outpost is Canada’s second, following the success of the Vancouver location.

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Co-founder and Managing Director Xuan Mu notes: “As we embark on this exciting journey, we celebrate not just a restaurant but a culmination of craftsmanship, culture, and community. Toronto’s dynamic energy and global outlook make it the perfect home for Mott 32. We look forward to creating unforgettable moments and becoming an integral part of this vibrant cityscape.”

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The restaurant’s decor reflects the contemporary flair of the menu. The space features a chic lounge with an antique brass bar on the first floor with lofty ceilings accented with emerald-colored glass blocks and four private dining areas located on the second floor available for up to 40 seated guests—each respectively themed with textiles, metals, ceramics and Hong Kong cinema, which can transform into a single event area.

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In the grand dining room, up to 90 guests can bask under floor-to-ceiling windows that flood in natural light by day and provide spectacular views at night. The Octagon Room lies at its heart, where patrons dine under a gazebo-like structure. Its eight corners, a traditional symbol of luck, add a touch of auspiciousness. Prefer a moodier vibe? Try the Boom Boom Room towards the back, a softer-lit space draped in greenery and suspended calligraphy brushes for a more private setting.

All three levels seamlessly blend modern sophistication with Big Apple industrial notes and the rich heritage of traditional Chinese design. Think exposed ceilings and concrete floors with ceramic tiling, woven bamboo details, and hand-polished copper walls. It’s the perfect pairing of place and tastes, making Mott 32 a much-anticipated addition to Toronto’s dining scene.

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