HAGS: Redefining Fine-Dining

HAGS is a queer-owned fine dining restaurant located at 163 1st Avenue in New York City’s East Village and open from 6-10 pm Wednesday through Saturday and 11 am to 2:30 pm Sundays. Chef Telly Justice and sommelier Camile Lindsley opened HAGS in 2022, reimagining the fine dining experience by prioritizing inclusivity, community, and joy over traditional norms. Their slogan, “By queer people, for all people,” makes their message clear.

Justice, a trans woman and accomplished chef, worked for years in spaces where her identity wasn’t welcome and culinary skills came at the cost of her own self. Lindsley also came up in an industry where joy and political care were often absent. Together, they thought of a restaurant that redefined fine dining as a space for inclusivity, tenderness, and celebration, motivated by the spirit of the queer potlucks and revolutionary kitchens they once called home.

What’s essential to the dining experience at HAGS? Queerness. Their motto mirrors its goal to create an inviting environment for all. Upon entering the restaurant, guests can take a pronoun pin to wear inside, and special touches like inclusive bathroom mirrors put an emphasis on their dedication to their care for the community. These mirrors are placed intentionally lower on the wall, with lighting that’s warm and flattering, not harsh or clinical. They’re meant to be kind and offer a soft place to land for guests who have complicated or fraught relationships with being perceived, particularly as trans, nonbinary, and gender-expansive people.

Art rotates on the walls. Staff are empowered to rest, laugh, and be themselves. It’s less about culinary perfection and more about creating a space where everyone, including guests, cooks, and servers, feels seen.

HAGS has two seasonal tasting menus: a five-course omnivore menu ($155) and a vegan option ($145). The two are flexible menus to adapt to any dietary restrictions and preferences, and the kitchen hones in on collaboration and creativity. Some notable dishes are the “Homo Hand Salad” and heirloom tomatoes with fava emulsion. The beverage program, created by Camille Lindsley, focuses on natural wines from queer-owned vineyards, and sustainable farming, playful pairings, and non-alcoholic pairings and mocktails are also considered.

The space is intimate, with only 20 seats and open kitchen access. It’s a sleek but warm aesthetic—a little bit punk and a little bit vintage, with small nods to queer history. The vibe is very casual, personal, and conversational, where guests are treated well. And on Sundays, they have “Pay What You Can” to increase accessibility—another nod to their inclusivity. They also partner with LGBTQ+ organizations like SAGE and The Okra Project to give back to the community. Lastly, staff are paid wages they can live off of rather than just survive; therefore, tipping is not mandatory there.

In 2023, HAGS received the MICHELIN Guide Young Chef Award, highlighting its innovative approach to fine dining. The restaurant has been featured in publications like The New Yorker and Eater, praised for its relaxed atmosphere and commitment to queering the fine dining experience.

Justice and Lindsley don’t want HAGS to be a singular exception. They have hopes for it to be the start of a larger shift—a model for how queer-led hospitality can look, feel, and feed. And they’re devoted to sharing all the things they’ve learned, like recipes and business practices, so others can create their own special versions of what HAGS represents: a place where food is personal, politics are inherent, and joy is crucial.

HAGS stands as proof of the transformative power of queer-led hospitality, providing a dining experience that is as inclusive and joyful as it is innovative.